My Little Bit of Costuming Advice


Where To Start?

How do you want to go about getting your first costumes?  Do you sew or are you willing to learn to sew?  Do you have little money but loads of time?  Do you have loads of money but little time?  How in-depth or authentic do you want to go?

If you see someone wearing something you like, ask them about it - where did they get it, how did they make it, where they did get the pattern, what research was involved, etc.
APPROACH #1
Make T-tunics until you settle down to one time period and culture or another.  They are good for many different cultures and time periods.

Method A ~is to use the directions in “Forward Into The Past.” a booklet available from the Society for Creative Anachronism's Stock Clerk.
Method B ~ which may work better for you is simply to:
    1. Obtain a length of fabric that is double your height from shoulder to floor or back of knee or anywhere in between.  Width of fabric             should be measure from wrist to wrist or elbow to elbow.
    2. Fold it in two lengthwise.
    3. Fold in two again width wise matching all selvage edges.
    4. Make a mark on the fabric allowing for chest and arm width and armpit area allowing plenty of room for movement.
    5. Make your cut depending on sleeve type you want - A, B, or between.
    6. Mark on your fabric where and how you want your neck hole to be.  Remember to cut a way smaller hole than you think.  The neck             hole you cut is 1/4 of the size it will be when unfolded.
    7. Sew side seams from hem to cuff.
    8. Finish neck hole in desired manner.
    9. Trim neck, cuffs, and bottom hem with sewing ribbon trim, embroidery, or paint.
    10. Belt the middle, add some jewelry, put on a cloak and a hat and you’re dressed. 

Method C ~ Make a tabard to throw over jeans and a T-shirt.  A tabard is simply a piece of fabric that is shoulder width or wider fabric doubled the length that you want it to be.  Make a neck hole.  Finish the neck hole and side edges.  Throw it over your head and belt it in the middle on the outside and you’re ready to go.
APPROACH #2
Method A:  Get some patterns from commercial pattern makers like Vogue, Simplicity, or McCall’s in the Halloween costume section. Some Folkwear patterns work well for period garb.  There are other makers out there with patterns. There is one called Medieval Miscellanea and another called Fantasy Fashion Patterns. There are many others out there but this calls for a little research. 

Method B:  Make your own patterns, if you have or want to acquire that ability.  Take some time to do some research in costuming history books and using period artwork.  Pay attention to details and really look at them. Try to analyze what it is you are actually seeing.  Where are the seams?  How is it cut?  How much seems to make sense?  How much doesn’t?  How much is possibly artistic license?  While you are at it, make a note of other details in the pictures besides the costume. Look at whatever the person is holding and how they are using it.  What else is around them?  You get the picture. 

Method C:  Get a copy of Compleat Anachronist #14 entitled “Costuming To A T”.  You can order using the form found in the SCA Marketplace Price List or you used to be able to.

Method D:  If you are not too picky about authenticity you may want to invest in a nice pattern book called " " written by Katherine Holkbauer Strand.  This is my preferred way of making patterns.  In costuming my two kids I simply fold the fabric into half or quarters depending on the costume piece.  Next I have them lay half of their body down on the fabric.  I use chalk to copy the pattern from the book trying to get as close to accurate as I can.  The next step is I pin it along the fabric line and have them get up and off the fabric very carefully.  Cutting, re-folding, repinning, and stitching follows after that.  I have used this book to make chitons, chemises, braies, tunics, shirts, and so on for my family.
APPROACH #3
Buy them, off the rack or through specialized catalogs catering to re-enactors.  Chivalry Sports carries them.  They also have a store that you can visit if you ever find yourself in the Tucson, Arizona area.  Attending large Kingdom tourneys like a Crown event and visiting Merchants Row is another alternative to this.  Also, looking for and at magazines, like Renaissance Magazine, you will find plenty of merchants that carry garb to suit you.  Another place to look for these merchants is on the Internet.  More than likely you will find more than dreamed possible.  Some of these merchants even specialize in one time period or culture or another; like, Scottish kilts, Elizabethans, Tudor, or Middle Eastern.
RESEARCH

What counts as doing research?  In my opinion, a lot more than one would think.  

My definition?  Any time you are actively in pursuit of knowledge that you did not have before you are doing research.  Especially if you are going to be putting that knowledge to some use; i.e., making garb or other artifacts, practicing some period technology, or teaching a class about it to others.  When doing this ALWAYS give credit to where you got the information be it a book, picture, or person.

If you go up and ask someone about something, ask them about whatever, it counts as research.

If you go to a museum and see pictures and artifacts with a view of recreating it, you are researching.

If you look at any type of history book: art, weapons, martial arts, costume, etc.; it constitutes as research.

When you do your looking up and looking at look closely at the pictures for details and read descriptions very carefully.  Look at and note down every detail as much and as many as possible.  This will be enable you to put things together with other things to make a more authentic, period feeling, atmosphere.  No matter where you go camping, feasting, Ithra classes, demos, or even fighters’ practices.

You will know what colors were used, how they were used and in what shades and tints and patterns.  
FABRIC

Get your fabric anywhere you can.  Garage sales, flea markets, swap meets, second hand stores, your mom’s stash, or commercial wholesale or retail outlets such as Hancocks, JoAnn’s, or Mill Ends.  

People have even been known to take apart old prom dresses and capes from Goodwill and other such places for fabric, trim, and fur bits.  Also, don’t overlook any old sheets, tablecloths, blankets and bedspreads at these places.  Some have been used to do duty as makeshift covers, cloaks, or even garb.

Be aware of patterns, fabric types, and colors.  Get to as close as natural fibers and known fabrics as you can afford.  Look for fabrics that have a period looking weave.  

Acceptable fabrics: Linen, muslin, cotton, broadcloth, velvet, satin, silk, canvas, wale-free smooth corduroy, and velour.

Avoid: double knit polyester, rubber backed drapery and upholstery fabrics.  Save the rubber backed brocades for wall hangings or cheap makeshift tent walls.  Also avoid drapery fabrics that have fibreglass in them.  
COLORS AND PRINTS

Look for colors that would have been obtained using plants, minerals, crushed insects, or clays.  Solid earth and jewel tones work very well most of the time.  Earthy neutral tones such as brown, sand, dirt, beige, and black.  

Think colors that one could get mainly from special dyer’s herbs and other plants.  Jewel tones are those closely matching gems such as amethyst, topaz, sapphire, jade, or ruby.  Some of these colors were obtained in period by the use of certain crushed beetles.

Avoid those gaudy colors from the 60's and fluorescent tones.  Pink and orange are good colors to avoid for early periods.  

In-depth research may reveal which cultures and time periods may have used pink or orange.  Compleat Anachronist #28 deals with this topic and more, by century, and also covers furs, trims, and what patterns and fabrics to look for.  Unfortunately this issue is out of print.

For restrictions on color of garb it is best to ask the local group that you are playing with regardless of the organization you to which you hold membership.  If no one knows, seek out more people who may know the answer or look for any publications or articles that your organization has published.  Many groups have restrictions on more than just the color of your garb.  Some restrict garb accessories as well.

When looking at prints, keep in mind the period you wish to be from.  Uneven stripes, tartans, and diapered patterned fabrics are safe to start with.  Brocades and tapestries usually need more research to be sure that it is an appropriate one for the gown or other garb piece from the desired time period.  

Avoid big flowery pattens and other big bold prints.
TRIMS

This is a fun subject because the possibilities for trimming your garb are endless.  You can do so many different materials that it is really cool.  Materials to consider are contrasting colored fabric, paint, embroidery floss, yarn, homemade braid, handwoven trim, commercial braids, etc.  You can do your trim or decoration directly by embroidering or painting the fabric itself.  Or, doing the application to another strip of fabric to sew onto the garb.  Or you can purchase the trim and sew it on like usual.  This decoration can be applied to the neckline, cuffs, and somewhere above the hemline.

At any rate, keep it simple.  Simple flowers and geometric patterns look most period.  Celtic knotwork trim is good.  Here again, also, doing a little research can go a long way.  Leafy interwined trims look wonderful.  Look around at the next event you attend, observe how people have decorated their garb.  There are a lot of merchants who attend events who sell trim as well.
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This page and all other pages found herein on this site were designed by the Lady Alys de Trois Rivieres herself.
As such they are maintained and updated by her as time allows.  Her hand last touched this page on July 30, 2006.