How To Dress You
WEARING YOUR GARB (or How To Get
Dressed)
Just for the sake of argument, I
have decided to add in here a bit about on how to wear your garb.
First,
think layers. These make wonderful sense for comfort. Layer
up
in the morning, strip off a layer or two as the heat progesses and then
layer back up again as it cools off in the evening. It really
works to
do this. I know from experience.
The
Layer Next To The Skin:
Nowadays we wear bras and panties. Back then they wore a binder
cloth
around their chests unless they were nursing. Later in the period
there were bodices and corsets to keep things in line up there.
Sometimes these items were worn on top of everything depending upon the
time period and the culture. Not a whole lot was known how, or
if,
women covered their nether regions. The best guesses that I heard
tell
was some sort of wrapping to hold padding of some sort for monthly
cycles and otherwise they wore nothing. Later in the period
pantaloons
of a sort were worn. Also, let us not forget that hose is period
for
both men and women in different periods.
The
Next Layer: Most cultures
and time periods would wear a chemise much like we wear slips today
under our dresses and skirts. Sometimes these had fitted sleeves
and
sometime they had big billowy ones with ample cloth. Chemises
were
also sometimes worn under corsets. Chemises make nice
nightgowns. It
has also been said that drawstrings are not period but they are so
widely accepted in many societies and organziations that there are
probably not many to bat an eye. They used
pleating and smocking for gathering up those extra inches of
fabric.
There is also what is called a “leine” which is an undergown of sorts
that the Irish wore. Some periods and cultures also wore another
gown
over the chemise known as the undergown which was sort of like the
outer one but made of thinner material.(this layer is optional in our
time.) Chemise and undergown length depended on intended
purpose. You
could have both of these the same length as the outer layer or you can
make them longer. If wearing a t-tunic, you can have it be both
or you have both a chemise and
an undergown. In this case you might want to make the chemise
ankle
length and the undergown toe length. For sleeve treatments here
you
could make a slightly more fitted sleeve for the chemise. A wider or
more ample sleeve or an angel wing for the undergown than the chemise
sleeve is needed. You have to remember you will be pulling these
all
on, one over the other. What you make these out of depends also
on
intended use.
The
Outer Layer: This layer
depends on time period, culture, and social rank. The later the
period, the more complicated to put on and wear, often requiring
assistance which is one reason why there were ladies-in-waiting and
extended families. With the simple old t-tunic your outer tunic
can be
any where from just below knee to toe length or actual ground
length.
I like everything ground length, I stay warmer that way. Sleeve
treatment should be wider than those of the chemise and the undergown
to accommodate putting it on over them. Angel wings look
cool. Long
angel wings can be knotted individually to keep them off the ground
better and is period. Also knotting them together makes perfect
sense
when you throw that knot over your head to your back. What
results is
shorter length sleeves that will stay out of the way better.
Another
thing you can do with your angel wings is to sew along the cuff
partway, allowing for your hand to pass making this resulting space
useful as
a pocket.
Adornment:
One could also put on
top of this top tunic, an apron or tabard, if you are going to be
working doing cooking, dishes, or similar activity when you want to
keep your clothes underneath clean. Then you would put on your
belt that
has hanging from it your pouch or purse, a goblet or mug on a string,
and your dagger or knife. Put on your footgear and add your
favorite pieces of jewelry and
your headgear. Fasten a cloak around your shoulders at your neck.
Now
you are all set. Go knock ‘em dead.
ACCESSORIES
Hats/Headgear:
Simple hoods work
well. Straw hats. Veils with a circlet.
Scarves. This subject also
depends on time period and culture. Here is where a little observation
and research can pay off for you, You wouldn’t want to wear a
Tudor
cap with a t-tunic. Bonnets. Flat caps - sew a “donut” to a
“pancake”
and finish with a collar for the band. Make the hole of the
“donut”
about the size of your head circumference. Look for hats and
headgear
at larger events on merchants row. There are also some sites online and
specialized catalogs that sell these items.
A
word of caution on metal circles for your head ~
check with an expert on such matters for whichever group it is that you
hold membership. Each group, organization, or society has its own
rules and regulations. I have noticed with different groups wider
and decorated
circlets after a while become crowns and coronets and imply certain
ranks, especially if they have pokey up parts. Again, consult
with an expert or you may try and find some publication regarding
this.
Shoes:
Simple leather sandals
and boots work well to begin with. Barefoot also works fine when
event location allows it. There are also patterns for sale
online. There is a good site called Footwear for the
Middle Ages online that would be a good place to start.
You
can also sometimes find boots and shoes and custom made services at
larger events, online or through some specialized catalogs. Avoid lace
up army boots and those sick summer thong sandals!
Belts:
Here you need to know two
things. One,
do not wear any type of white belt. This color of belt
is reserved for the Knighthood in a lot of groups and
organizations. Two, do not
wear any type of red
belt. This color of belt is reserved for their Squires in a lot
of different groups. Chain belts
are nice. Many people attach bells to these so you can hear them
coming for a ways off. Some put on a lot of bells so you can hear
them
coming from even further away. Big leather belts in brown or
black are good. Get them from Goodwill or other second hand
places, online,
specialty catalogs, or merchants on site. The coolest ones, I
think,
are the ones you just loop through and have no belt buckles per
se.
Beware that there has been controversy over whether or not these were
period. The choice is yours.
Pouches/Belt
Purses: Since
pockets did not come along until later in the period of our studies,
you can use pouches and what I call belt purses. Fabric pouches
are
simple and easy to make.
1. Get two layers of your desired
piece of
fabric or use scraps from your costume.
2. Lay everything on it you plan
on putting into it and draw a rectangle around the items. Remember to
allow for seams and a
casing at the
top.
3. Sew along one edge, across
the bottom, and up the other side.
4. Now fold the top down for the
casing. Do openings in the casing how ever you wish, one opening
at
each side.
5. Now measure out enough string
or cording to run through the
whole case plus 6 inches, cut two lengths this way.
6. String one cord
through one of the holes and tie off. String the second cord
through
the other hole and tie off.
7. Voila! and
you’re done!!
Purses go along
the same lines to cutting out only you need to allow for a flap.
I am
currently developing a pattern and instructions for this and will come
out with it as soon as I can.
JEWELRY
What can I say? Gold and
silver
are neat. Put it in your ear lobes, around your waist or neck,
and on
your wrists. There are so many types and styles to choose
from. There
are many sources for jewelry - all the same as for getting fabric,
patterns, or trim - second hand stores, at events, online, and through
specialty catalogs.
Go for more ancient or
simplistic looks like circles and spirals. Rings, bracelets,
penanular brooches, necklaces and pins.
I would like to warn you here to
avoid getting any jewelry with a pelican, a laurel wreath, a drop of
blood, or anything that might be reserved for special
recognition. Check your groups experts on this. Being
careful of things that could be mistaken for reserved
images will or maybe help you at least staying out of trouble or keep
from offending someone. If in doubt, always grab an
experienced member, Herald, or expert and ask their advice BEFORE you
buy. I can’t think of anything
else at the moment.
This
page and all other pages found herein on this site were designed by the
Lady Alys de Trois Rivieres herself.
As such they are maintained
and
updated by her as time allows. Her hand last touched this page on
July 30, 2006.